Do You Know About the Tibetan Bon Monastery in India?

Nestled amidst nature, surrounded by hills filled with greenery, the Tibetan Bon Monastery exudes a sudden cultural vibrancy, enshrining the ancient Bon religion of Tibet that existed even before Buddhism stepped into the land and merged with this culture to form Mahayana Buddhism. Also, the traditions of Bon are heavily used in the Dzogchen Practice. 

In this blog, I will share with you my experience of this beautiful place and share with you the cultural insights of this tradition. Along with this, will share the proper location and how you can reach this Tibetan Bon Monastery. 

Where is the Tibetan Bon Monastery Located?

Menri Monastery is located in R4WX+CP2, Dolanji, Ganyar, Himachal Pradesh 173223. 

Clueless?

Yes, I was too, when I read this on Google. But then like any other traveller, who believes that Google has all the answers, I started searching for the ways through which I can reach this place. Based on Google Baba’s advice, I decided to take a bus from Chandigarh to Barog, then get another bus from Barog to Dolanji, and then walk 1 to 2 kilometres to reach my final destination.  

(How I came to know about this monastery is a separate story and will share later sometime). 

Google also showed that from Chandigarh it takes almost 2 hours and 20 minutes (Car) to reach the Tibetan Bon Monastery.

Wait! Reality struck me hard when I reached Barog from the Chandigarh bus and realised that Google didn’t have all the answers after all, and so did most of the people, as when I kept asking about the Monastery, they all gave me a very perplexed look. 

So, while looking for a solution in a remote place that had few shops and stays, I noticed a Paratha hotel, named Paratha King.  True to its name, it did make my taste buds feel like a king as I tore a piece of the aloo-filled crispy yet soft paratha and dipped it in a bowl of fresh curd, instantly munching in my mouth. Ecstatic is the right expression, as for some time I forgot the stress of not figuring out the mysterious monastery. 

But a stomach that is full and a mind that is happy will always find its way. So did I too. 

One of the staff in the Paratha hotel told me that I made a mistake, as it is convenient to directly reach Solan and get a bus from there to Kala Kotla (Or something similar…sorry I still struggle with this name). 

So, the right route is to take a bus from Chandigarh to the Solan bus stop.  Then hop onto any bus that can take you to the closest point towards Dolanji. If you are lucky, you might get a bus that directly goes to Dolanji from Solan in the Daytime. 

As I was kind of in Barog, I again took a bus from there to Solan. I asked the conductor, and he took me to a point from where I walked for 2 km to reach Dolanji.

After Reaching the Tibetan Bon Monastery

The first thing that I noticed was the rows of Tibetan flags with mantras fluttering in the air against the clear blue sky. It is a belief that these flags have positive and powerful mantras that foster a positive vibe to the place with the constant breeze carrying these mantras and proliferating the message of peace everywhere. 

The locality, although a bit remote, had few shops, 2 cafes, and a series of monastic-styled buildings, most of which were academic institutes and a central library, making me ascertain that this tradition worships knowledge. The distinct architecture of the place with red buildings and entrances, embellished with vibrant murals that are curved out to enhance the beauty, made me feel that I was in a completely different land. 

The locals passing by seemed to emanate a constant sense of tranquillity as they kept a smiling radiant face while holding the red sandalwood beads, chanting a Tibetan mantra simultaneously.  From a distance, you can hear birds chirping and the leaves rustling, enhanced by the stillness of the pervading silence. A cluster of monkeys swinging from one tree to another, undisturbed by the onlookers. 

Tibetan Bon Monastery’s Homestay

While walking through the colourful lanes of Dolanji, I tried to find the homestay owned by Menri Monastery, which was not that far from the main gate. It took me a maximum of 10 minutes to walk from the main entrance of Dolanji to the monastery guest house.

The guest house is not very fancy, but neat with minimal rates starting from Rs.500 to Rs1000, depending on the type of room you want (Standard/Delux/Premium). Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner are all-inclusive to the room fare, but are strictly timed. 

The construction of the guest house offers a common balcony to all the rooms, from where you can see the vast expanse of mountains trailing in a zig-zag manner. The sight was looking like a painting, especially as the sun was about to set, emitting different shades of yellows and oranges. I felt like I was in a different world, far away from the commotions of the cacophonic fast life that capitalism has made us all addicted to.

I had dinner at 7 (as per the timing), which was a simple combination of a palatable diet, consisting of Kichuri and vegetable soup.

Since the main Tibetan Bon Monastery was closed by 6 PM, I decided to visit the next morning.

The Splendour at the Tibetan Bon Monastery

The morning started early at 5 am, when I woke up to see the splendid view of the mountains and the sun that was rising slowly, with the sky getting livid with the constant change of hue, that kept dissipating the darkness into light. 

As I quietly witnessed the changing sky I wondered about the futility of living a fast life that leads nowhere, other than the continuous cycle of birth, series of life events, death, and again birth…questions started to brew in my mind, compelling me to ponder about the life that I lived till now and all the lives associated with me. I thought about love, suffering, attachment, and desire… and also about the highest truth that the sky emits but the dust in my eye doesn't allow me to gaze at it boldly and constantly without blinking. 

As thoughts kept gushing into my mind, I decided to complete breakfast, which was served at 7 am, and walk towards the Tibetan Bon Monastery. 

The temple at the Tibetan Bon Monastery showcased a big central idol of Tonpa Shenrab, who is the central Buddha of the Yundrung Bon tradition, followed by idols of many other Buddhas. After bowing down with respect, I walked towards another monastery that was situated in the same temple premises. 

This monastery had a big statue of Dreu Nagmo, the wrathful female deity who rides on a black mule and is the protector of the tradition. 

The monks stepped in and started singing Tibetan mantras while clapping the drums with a very low yet heavy-toned voice that seemed to create a peculiar vibration in the head of the listener. As the prayer was almost over the monks after some time offered bread and sweet potato curry, which was absolutely delightful to taste. Tangy yet sweet, the potatoes were like wedges in a sticky curry that I rolled inside the bread and blissfully enjoyed every bite.

The incense smoke made the temple premises smell a certain way that was fresh and pleasant.

Meeting a Monk at the Tibetan Bon Monastery

I had a strong desire to understand this practice better, so decided to talk to a Monk. Unfortunately, most of the monks would speak either Tibetan or Mandarin. Fortunately, I came across the Dalai Lama of the Bon Tradition, and he redirected me to one monk in the vicinity who knew Hindi and English along with Tibetan and Mandarin. 

It was 10 O’clock when I decided to visit the monk and thought of learning the practice more.

Although I do not wish to disclose much about the meeting, he told me something extremely powerful that resonated with me and stayed till now.

The teacher said that the mind is like a glass of water and our thoughts are like dust on the water. If you keep stirring the glass, the dust will never settle down for you to see the clear water. So, it is important that you keep the glass aside, undisturbed for some time, and the dust will soon slowly settle down at the bottom eventually. 

In short, keep meditating so that our mind’s rattle soon dissipates and settles down for us to see the actual nature of the mind that we possess, like the water. 

Bidding Adieu to the Tibetan Bon Monastery

With a refreshed mind that seemed to be touched by the permeating bliss that this place emanated, I felt like a completely different person, with a perspective that was willing to further explore this place. But time was running out and I had to catch a bus that comes to Dolanji directly at 12:30 PM and drops at Solan. After 12:30 PM, there are no direct buses and I again have to walk 2 km back to the place where I was dropped while coming to Dolanji. So, this is the best option I have.

I got myself a quick lunch of steamed veg momos and noodles that were yummy yet filling, in the cafe that I first spotted while entering Dolanji (and is probably the only decent cafe in the region). 

As the bus came honking, I came out of the cafe, hopped onto the bus and got ready to head back home.